FAQ

Q:  What is the best way to clean a Claire Murray hand-hooked wool rug?

A:  Below are general guidelines for cleaning our wool rugs;

Select a pH-neutral, wool-specific detergent or mild, clear (no color or dye) dish soap. Bleach, ammonia, or high pH soaps/cleaners will strip the natural oils, fade/bleed colors, and damage fibers.

Test for Colorfastness: Always test a new cleaning solution on a small, hidden corner of the rug by dabbing it with a white cloth. If any color bleeds onto the cloth, avoid using water-based cleaning products.

Vacuum & Shake: Take the rug outside and shake or lightly beat it to loosen deeply embedded dirt. Vacuum it gently using a suction-only setting (avoid a spinning beater bar). 
Clean Gently: Apply the wool-safe cleaner using a soft-bristled brush or sponge. Work from the outer edges of the stain toward the center to avoid spreading it. Do not saturate the rug. 

Rinse & Dry: Blot with clean water or a damp towel to remove all soapy residue. Dry the rug completely flat with good air circulation within 24 hours to prevent mold and mildew.

 

Q:  I have rugs that I purchased 20+ years ago, the rugs are in good shape but the backing material is disintegrating. I'd like to keep the rugs and have them repaired, though I cannot find anyone willing to make the repairs. Do you have any recommendations?

A:  Below are general guidelines for repairing the cotton/latex backing;

Step 1: Prepare the Rug: Lay the rug upside down on a flat, protected work surface. Do not use a metal scraper. Instead, use a medium-stiff nylon brush to gently brush away all the dry, flaky, and powdery old latex.  Vacuum the back thoroughly to remove lingering dust. Note: If you scrape too aggressively, you risk pulling out the wool loops and ruining the pattern on the front.

Step 2: Apply the Liquid Latex: Select a high-quality flexible, and acid-free natural liquid latex (often sold as carpet latex or secondary backing adhesive). Avoid cheap hardware-store contact cements, which dry brittle and can rot wool fibers. Pour the latex into a tray and apply an even coat to the exposed cotton backing using a wide paintbrush or foam roller. Press down lightly so the latex seeps into the base of the wool loops, locking them back into the primary canvas. Let this first coat dry completely (about 4 to 6 hours) before moving to the next step. This ensures the loops are 100% secure before you apply tension with the new backing.

Step 3: Attach the Breathing Layer/Backing:  Apply a second, fresh layer of liquid latex over the dried first layer. For added strength, lay a piece of pre-cut 100% cotton monk's cloth, heavy burlap, or linen canvas over the wet latex layer. Use your brush to press it firmly into the glue. Avoid synthetic backings, as natural wool needs to "breathe" to prevent dry rot.  Use a clean rolling pin or a wallpaper roller to smooth out the backing from the center of the rug toward the edges. This ensures a flat, uniform bond without displacing the wool loops.

Special Warning for Hand-Hooked Wool Rugs:  Do not over saturate with the liquid latex applications, apply even thin coats. No washing before curing. Do not attempt to wash or wet-clean the rug while the backing is deteriorating, or the wool loops will fall out. Wash it only after the new backing has cured for 48 hours

Step 4: Cure and Seal: Let the first two coats dry completely, which typically takes 24 to 48 hours. Apply a third coat of liquid latex over the new backing to seal it. Let the rug cure for at least 48 hours before turning it right-side up and placing it on your floor.

Note: Natural liquid latex has a strong ammonia smell. Because wool absorbs odors easily, cure the rug in a highly ventilated garage, porch, or room with a fan blowing away from the rug